Morinj.
In the 19th century this tiny village possessed 13 ocean-going vessels. Today there are only the fishermen, barefoot, blackened and canny. Turn off the engine and hear the wind rustling the willow fronds. Then follow the burbling mountain brook round small dams, ponds teeming with trouts, ducks very much in the plural and geese. Take a pathway lined with mimosa and camellia to find treasure in the guise of an old mill, now a restaurant, Ćatovića Mlini. Think risotto cold, squid ink; think risotto warm, shrimp; think icy sauvignon, Montenegrin grown. This luxurious and pampering restaurant in its beautiful ancient stone setting with its deep cushions and pastoral peace would seem to have escaped from the pages of Country Life. There is as yet nothing else quite like it in Montenegro and it is highly recommended for its cooking, comfort and the charming family who have owned the property for over 200 years, after whom it is named and who will ensure your happiness. Various home-produced products are available, including wine. Moderate to high prices.

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